Got the front end dropped down to what will be full bump. Moved the axle around to see where I want it. Put a small block of 2x3 on the top of the diff to leave room for truss/link. Going to have to watch out for the harmonic balancer, and the cps on it. (that's the wire you see). It would be nice to have a truss already built and in place but funds are super tight right now so doing what I can with what I have.







Once I get it trussed, kingpins, knuckles and hi steer all put together it may move a little but I think this is close.

So why do most people put their 3rd link on a 3link set up on the driver side? I'm thinking it might be easier to put it on the passenger side as far as room goes. Anyone have any idea?

Or should I go further forward, lower, and switch to electric fans? So hard to decide which way to go. In the end I will likely not make it as low, to save on cost, and to get going sooner. If I do try to stay this low, I will likely have to modify the front part of the frame to clear steering.

Chilipepper wrote:So why do most people put their 3rd link on a 3link set up on the driver side? I'm thinking it might be easier to put it on the passenger side as far as room goes. Anyone have any idea?

Should be on the opposite site of your track bar connection to the axle, which should follow/be parallel with the drag link.

If you had a right hand drive you could switch it!

I would go with an electric fan if possible. That should help with clearance but will cost you about $100. You can pick your fan now, look up the specs on the size and make a mock up with cardboard to test fit.

Chilipepper wrote:Or should I go further forward, lower, and switch to electric fans? So hard to decide which way to go. In the end I will likely not make it as low, to save on cost, and to get going sooner. If I do try to stay this low, I will likely have to modify the front part of the frame to clear steering.

Questions...
What is your wheel base right now?

Is a 2X3 really the same size as your truss + mount?

Did you move the radiator forward?
-If you do this you can easily get another 3 inches of clearance (front to rear)

What about a 4 link that is centered to clear the oil pan?

I have seen some of the Taurus fans on ebay for around 58 bones if that helps.
If you get that front axle in front of the block, it will technically be a mid-engine...

The truss is going to be very low profile, and will be based off of Solid's top plate for their HP 60.
http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=12&idcategory=13
I will build off that top plate as opposed to welding to the cast, but will still weld to the tubes. I plan on integrating the link mount into the truss so its not sticking off the top.
Also thinking about trying to triangulate the front links to get rid of the trac bar. Probably dual triangulate to really lock it in place. Crazy??? maybe?
As it sits right now i'm at about 111", so if i do push the axle any further forward, I'm likely going to shorten up the tail end also, which will make my departure angle better anyway.
I like the idea of the electric fan for space saving, and taking that load off the engine. I've never done that conversion but it cant be to bad. I will search Taurus fan and see what I find.

I'm also throwing around the idea of going full hydro so i don't have to worry about clearance for a drag link and tie rod....

Sounds good. I would say push it forward and go 4 link. You can gain a little space to clear the oil pan if needed. The exhaust is going to be the tough part. for clearance on that 4th link. I love my full hydro and would do it again in an instant. Just more money to spend right?

I looked at it last night, and i'd have to go WAYYYY further forward to put a ram behind the diff. But full hydro may still be in the running of possibility....

Ballistic is having a return customer sale. Got 20% off on the phone. Ordered this bad boy.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/14-Bolt-Rear-Axle-Truss-_p_1493.html
Also looking for some '77 K20 3/4 ton rotors and calipers. Then once I get the ring gear machined down and the bottom plate welded, I can put all this together and the rear axle will be built.
Then its back to saving $$$ for the rest of the front axle parts.